Daniel Roseberry opened Paris Haute Couture Week with The Abyss, a dramatic Fall/Winter 2026-2027 couture collection that transformed Schiaparelli’s signature surrealism into an exploration of the ocean’s most mysterious depths.
Presented at Place Vendôme, the collection abandoned traditional couture materials in favour of latex, silicone and sculpted sheets of paint, creating silhouettes inspired by marine life, coral formations and bioluminescent sea creatures.
The show marked a creative departure for Roseberry, who revealed in his notes that attempts to replicate the success of previous collections ultimately led him to embrace uncertainty instead. “Formulas are the antithesis of the magic of creation,” he wrote, describing the collection as an act of surrender to the unknown.
That approach was visible throughout the runway. Models emerged in glossy latex corsets, silicone bustiers and dresses adorned with tentacle-like extensions, while LED-lit details mimicked the glow of deep-sea organisms. One of the collection’s standout looks featured a coral-inspired gown requiring nearly 10,000 hours of craftsmanship, combining lacquered silicone, hand-embroidered details and sculptural horsehair tentacles.
The palette reflected an underwater fantasy, blending lobster pink, pale mint, coral tones and Schiaparelli’s signature gold against glossy black finishes. Accessories continued the narrative with alien-like metallic footwear and jewellery inspired by seashells, sea urchins and anemones.
Among the models on the runway were Karlie Kloss, Anok Yai and Mona Tougaard, while the front row drew an equally impressive guest list including Bad Bunny, Michelle Yeoh, Emma Corrin, Vera Wang, Law Roach and Chiara Ferragni.
More than a showcase of technical innovation, The Abyss demonstrated Schiaparelli’s ongoing commitment to pushing couture beyond convention. By combining artisanal craftsmanship with experimental materials and technology, Roseberry delivered one of the most imaginative collections of the season and set a high bar for the week ahead.
Check out some of the looks above and head to the brand’s website for more.
