Alright, darlings, let’s be honest: regularly slathering our glorious melanin-rich skin with every cream, oil, lotion, or trusty dose of Vaseline imaginable is, for many of us, a fundamental part of the Black experience. And why? To valiantly counteract that notorious “ashiness” we sometimes feel naturally predisposed to. But why do so many of us battle dull, persistently dry skin on the daily?

Well, according to the actual experts (and we love an expert), it all boils down to our genetics. Turns out, Black skin naturally boasts lower levels of ceramides. But fear not, because luckily for us, there’s a sophisticated way to counteract this!

“Ceramides are a type of lipid (that’s a fancy word for fat molecule, darling!) found in the stratum corneum, otherwise known as our skin barrier – the outermost layer of our skin. They essentially act as the ‘glue’ that holds skin cells together, forming a protective barrier that not only prevents moisture from making a grand exit but also guards against environmental damage.”

Now, scientists are still puzzling over the why, but studies conclusively show that ceramide levels in Black skin are simply lower than those in our white counterparts. Is it any wonder, then, that so many of us wouldn’t dream of leaving the house without some form of moisturiser clutched firmly in our handbags? It’s not just a preference; it’s a necessity!

And unfortunately, it’s not merely the look of dry skin that this affects. “A leaky skin barrier doesn’t just cause dehydration and dryness; it also makes the skin far more susceptible to inflammation and irritation from various environmental aggressors, such as harsh chemicals found in everyday soaps, cleaning products, and even those highly-fragranced cosmetics.”

And where there’s inflammation and moisture loss, a cascade of skin woes often follows: think dry, rough patches, persistent irritation, pigmentation issues, fine lines, wrinkles, a loss of firmness, and yes, even unwelcome bouts of acne. Not quite the glowing complexion we’re after, is it?

Your Guide to Countering the Ceramide Conundrum

To halt this unwelcome snowball effect of skin woes, boosting our ceramide levels is absolutely key. The kicker? Not only are we born with fewer ceramides, but just like with collagen and elastin, our natural production of these essential fats gracefully declines over time. “Ceramide production naturally decreases with age, particularly after the age of 30.” On top of that, those pervasive UV rays, urban pollution, and even harsh weather conditions can break down ceramides, leaving our skin feeling utterly parched.

To readdress this delicate balance, we need a fabulous multi-step approach. Luckily for us, the beauty world has delivered! There’s a veritable treasure trove of ceramide-boosting and skin-barrier-bolstering skincare waiting to be integrated into our daily regimens.

“Using skincare products that contain ceramides helps to reinforce the skin barrier and prevent trans-epidermal water loss.” As a skin-identical active (meaning your skin intelligently recognises the ceramides in products just as it does its naturally produced ones), you’ll often find them in hero barrier repair products, alongside ceramide precursors (like phytosphingosine and sphingosine) which work to stimulate our own natural ceramide production. Smart, right?

But according to the experts, you shouldn’t stop at simply ramping up ceramides. By strategically adding barrier-supporting ingredients such as cholesterol, fatty acids, peptides, and niacinamide into your routine, you can fortify your skin barrier even further and even encourage your body to produce more ceramides, giving your stores a little boost. Tag-team those with other hydrating superstars like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, and then (and this is key!), top it all off with a glorious occlusive like shea butter or good old petroleum jelly (that trusty Vaseline we all grew up with!). Voilà – you have the perfect routine to truly lock in all that hard-earned moisture.

Oh, and it’s always worth a gentle reminder, darling – do NOT skip sun protection. Yes, even our gloriously melanated babes need to shield their skin from damaging UV rays. Especially since a naturally weaker barrier will find it even harder to protect the skin from the sun’s onslaught, leading straight to hyperpigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, and that unwelcome loss of elasticity. Protect that glow!

What to Ditch for Your Most Hydrated Skin Ever

Applying all those fabulous ceramides and addressing overall hydration won’t be quite as effective if you’re still clinging to a few ingredients that are the absolute nemesis of ashy skin. Time for a ruthless purge, perhaps?

“Ditch harsh sulphates found in many cleansers like SLS and SLES, and opt for gentle, pH-balancing varieties instead. And, darling, don’t overuse those exfoliating acids (we’re looking at you, AHAs and BHAs) or heavy-duty physical scrubs, as these can actually weaken the skin barrier and even trigger hyperpigmentation in Black skin” . Her sage advice? Stick to gentle exfoliators like lactic acid and PHAs. Dr. Belmo also advises against regular use of denatured (aka drying) alcohol-based products, “as this alone can disrupt the lipid barrier and deplete ceramides.” Seriously, step away from the alcohol.

A word of caution to our vitamin A lovers with dry skin: exercise restraint with retinoids. “Yes, they’re brilliant for skin renewal, but high-strength formulas can cause dryness and compromise the barrier. If you’re using daily, always moisturise either after retinoid application or deploy a genius ‘sandwich’ style approach – applying a moisturiser both before and after. Or, simply reduce frequency to improve tolerance.”

Lastly, and this is a big one: be very wary of skincare products absolutely laden with artificial fragrances and essential oils. While they might smell divine, these can be incredibly irritating for dry or sensitive skin, potentially leading to inflammation that, you guessed it, weakens the barrier over time. Not chic.

Essentially, for ceramide-poor Black skin, it is of the utmost importance that you stay as moisturised as humanly possible to avoid looking dull, dry, and, dare we say, ashy. Your ultimate focus? Strengthening that magnificent skin barrier if you truly want to rock your best, most radiant complexion yet. Go forth and glow!