What was meant to be a stylish nod to heritage has taken an unexpected turn. Willy Chavarria — celebrated for blending streetwear edge with cultural storytelling — has issued a public apology following criticism over his latest adidas Originals collaboration.

The design in question, the Chavarria Oaxaca Slip On, was first revealed last weekend during an adidas Originals panel at the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico. The event itself was all about legacy-meets-innovation, featuring speakers like Archival Specialist Sandra Trapp, Originals Design Director Rafael Mayorga, and Storytelling Director Valentina Benitez Castellanos — plus a peek at the ever-growing Bad Bunny archive.

Chavarria explained at the time that the shoe drew inspiration from the huarache — a traditional leather sandal with deep roots in Mexican craft and Chicano street style. His version featured a woven leather upper, an exaggerated grip sole, and a laid-back slip-on shape, photographed by Marco Ovando and modelled by Mexican artist Juan Berthau. Styled with socks or bare toes, it had the makings of a summer favourite.

But the backlash came quickly. Critics pointed out that the huarache is traditionally handmade by indigenous artisans in Oaxaca — yet this new version was manufactured in China without collaboration or credit to those communities. Even the Mexican President weighed in, sparking a bigger conversation about how fashion borrows, honours, or exploits cultural designs.

In a statement to the BBC, Chavarria said:

“I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.”

Mexico’s deputy culture minister, Marina Nunez, confirmed that adidas is now in talks with Oaxacan officials to discuss potential restitution. As for the shoe? No official release date is on the calendar.

A reminder, perhaps, that in fashion, heritage deserves as much care as the stitching.