David Koma clearly isn’t here to play. If his debut at Blumarine last season felt like a teaser, Spring/Summer 2026 was the full-length feature—bold, moody, and completely in tune with the house’s DNA. Butterflies, Blumarine’s signature emblem, weren’t fluttering around innocently this time; they were recast as creatures of both light and shadow, part sweet fantasy, part gothic fever dream. Add dragonflies into the mix, and suddenly the runway felt like an enchanted garden where beauty doesn’t come without a bite.
Blumarine
Koma leaned into contrasts with a kind of surgical precision. Georgette dresses spilled in ruffles and twisted bows, their romantic edges deliberately frayed with raw hems. Satin gowns glistened with butterfly embroidery, but their polished surfaces carried an undercurrent of brooding drama. The standout? Sheer elastic tulle, stretched and embroidered like spiderwebs—fragile, unsettling, and utterly irresistible.
Even the accessories refused to whisper. Crosses swung heavy on chokers, dragonfly pendants clung to chains, and hammered cuffs hugged arms like armor. It was jewellery as punctuation—sharp, final, and impossible to ignore.
What Koma managed here is no small win. In just two seasons, he’s rewritten Blumarine’s present tense without erasing its history. SS26 wasn’t about nostalgia—it was about proving that gothic romance and airy femininity can coexist without cancelling each other out. If anything, this collection was a reminder that fashion’s sweetest notes sound better when played against a darker chord.
